Issue No. 6

August 28th, 2010

The Call of the Family Business

by Susan Marquis

Tucked down a small street, in a largely residential area of Cambridge, Massachusetts, is one of the great cathedrals of cheese in the United States. There aren’t many of these places: Murray’s Cheese and Fairway Market in New York City, The Beverly Hills Cheese Store, Cowgirl Creamery in Pt. Reyes, San Francisco, and Washington, DC; Farmstead Cheeses in Providence, Cheesetique in Alexandria, Virginia and…Formaggio Kitchen in Cambridge, Boston, and now New York City.

Steve Jenkins—Deciding to Become the Best There Is

by Meaghan Colleary

The cheese section of the Fairway Market website states the claim “We invented cheese.” After having met Mr. Steven Jenkins, resident cheesemaker and gastronomist extraordinaire, I can confirm that this is 100% true. I’m writing to you today from my humble Manhattan abode to share all the juicy, or shall I say “cheesy,” details.

Getting to Know Comté

You’ve read about Kurt Gurdal’s visit to the Marcel Petit firm in Jura to taste and buy Comté so Cheese Enthusiast thought you might want to know a bit more about this cheese. Here, we’ll provide you background information on Comté and in a separate article, Cheese Enthusiast will share the results of a tasting of Comté and Gruyère. To learn even more about the cheese and the region in which it is made, the most extensive source we’ve found is a wonderful article by Edward Behr in the Art of Eating. Other excellent sources include French Cheeses by Kazuko Masui and Tomoko Yamada and Steve Jenkins’s classic Cheese Primer.

Do Try This at Home

by Susan Marquis

Touching on Ricotta and Aging Cheese at Home
Whew! Cheese Enthusiast has just returned home after another three-day workshop at the Vermont Institute of Artisan Cheese. This workshop was an intense look at Italian and Mediterranean cheeses, focusing on Sicily and Campania in Italy as well as Greek cheeses. In future issues, we will pass on to Cheese Enthusiast readers what we learned, beginning with ricotta and ricotta-like cheeses in CE 7. The timing is perfect because Cheese Enthusiast recently received this letter from Catherine in British Columbia, Canada:

Cheese Discoveries

by Susan Marquis

Cheese Enthusiast occasionally asks cheesemongers to recommend cheeses with which readers might not be familiar. For this issue we spoke on-site with Vince Razionale at Formaggio Kitchen in Cambridge, Massachusetts. These are the cheeses and cheesemakers Vince doesn’t want you to miss:

Book Review

The Cheese Chronicles

Liz Thorpe
Ecco/HarperCollins 2009
$15.99
Reviewed by Christopher Thompson

Sometimes, the planets align beautifully and the good nature of the universe is apparent. Elsewhere in this issue of Cheese Enthusiast is Meaghan Colleary’s report on her interview with Steven Jenkins, Cheese Czar of New York’s Fairway Market. And a week after Meg filed her story, this is what we find on page 6 of Liz Thorpe’s highly engaging and thoroughly enjoyable The Cheese Chronicles:

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